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giovedì 26 novembre 2015

"Make Up - 100 anni allo specchio" di Antonio Ciaramella: una piccola recensione

57 comments


Il 900 è stato un secolo ricco di cambiamenti radicali: cambia la società e quindi cambiano i bisogni. Le nuove esigenze fanno maturare di volta in volta un diverso ideale di bellezza sul quale viene modellato un nuovo concetto di stile. Le oscillazioni del gusto sono state quindi repentine e numerose, imparare a conoscerle ci aiuta a mantenere una memoria storica, a comprendere certe dinamiche del nostro passato e di come queste hanno determinato il nostro presente e influiranno ancora sul nostro futuro.

Purtroppo questa memoria storica sembra essersi un po' persa se prendiamo in esame ciò che circola riguardo il trucco d'epoca: non c'è una ricerca filologica delle tecniche e dei prodotti che venivano utilizzati, ma dalle immagini si tende a percepire un stile che viene interpretato con un punto di vista moderno. Lo stile diventa stilema, lo stilema si trasforma man mano in una serie di caratteristiche che diventano iconiche per noi moderni, ma che nei fatti tradiscono la loro vera origine e smettono di parlarci della loro storia.

Insomma, a me scoccia passare per la bacchettona criticona che arriva e giudica i lavori altrui, perchè magari è anche simpatico ogni tanto fare una reinterpretazione in chiave fantasy di un trucco d'epoca, o fare qualcosa di moderno che lo ricordi, quindi taccio. Il più delle volte, però,  vedo cose che si spacciano per tutorial d'epoca e invece propinano falsi storici e io me ne infastidisco.
Antonio Ciaramella, make up artist specializzato in trucco teatrale, cinamtografico e televisivo, docente presso la Romeur Academy e capo truccatore di Miss Italia, ha lavorato come un bravo topino da biblioteca e ha raccolto tutti i documenti che attestano la nascita delle mode, i progressi delle tecnologie, l'arrivo sul mercato di nuovi prodotti e le immagini che rivelano come tutto questo veniva tramutato in bellezza, attraverso il trucco e l'acconciatura. Si tratta quindi di un lungo lavoro mirato a tracciare un affresco sulla storia della bellezza e del costume che fa riferimento a dati reali, e non ai cliché che sono arrivati ai giorni nostri. Da questi studi è nato il libro di cui oggi vi parlo ma anche un grande archivio on line - Timeless Beauty - continuamente aggiornato con nuovi studi e nuovi documenti.



Il libro espone per ogni decennio il quadro storico nel quale si contestualizzano le novità nel campo della bellezza, per poi arrivare ad esempi visivi attraverso immagini delle star del momento, delle campagne pubblicitarie e di prodotti originali dell'epoca. Il tutto è poi corredato da schede tecniche, dove vengono descritte le correzioni volumetriche usate al tempo (quello che noi oggi definiamo trucco correttivo) e la scelta cromatica del trucco in base ai colori correnti della cliente. in modo da realizzare qualcosa che sia armonizzante e rispecchi realmente il gusto dell'epoca. Si parte da inizio 900 fino ad arrivare ai giorni nostri, con face chart da stampare per esercitarsi.




Leggendo questo libro scoprirete cose molto interessanti che, probabilmente, vi stupiranno: Siete sicure che il look iconico degli anni 20 fosse smokey eyes e rossetto scuro? in realtà era molto più leggero e i rossetti scuri non esistevano. Il cinema muto ci ha mostrato un certo tipo make up e quello è diventato per noi iconico dell'inizio secolo, ma siamo certe che il trucco dello spettacolo corrispondesse a quello delle donne comuni? no, e ci sono tanti retroscena riguardo il trucco cinematografico, studiato ad hoc per poter arrivare al pubblico in tempi in cui le pellicole erano di scarsa qualità e la mimica doveva sopperire alla mancanza del suono. E il contouring non è affatto un'invenzione attuale, scoprirete che in realtà già dagli anni 30, con la nascita della figura del truccatore, veniva studiato come applicare i chiari e gli scuri con le creme, in modo da valorizzare il volto. E lo sapete che l'eyeliner viene lanciato sul mercato solo negli anni 60? Siete curiose di scoprire tutti i segreti del trucco di Marilyn Monroe? Mi fermo qui, il resto lo scoprirete sfogliando le pagine di Make up - 100 anni allo specchio.



Le Face Chart del libro, stampate e spennellate da me ^_^

E' un libro che io suggerisco un po' a tutti: è perfetto per chi ama il make up, ma è anche istruttivo per chi ama la storia, è una chicca per le appassionate del vintage, è utilissimo per i truccatori ma in generale per tutti coloro che lavorano nel mondo della bellezza e del costume. Insomma da avere in libreria e sfogliare più e più volte.

E voi, avete qualche curiosità riguardo il trucco dei decenni passati?
A presto ^_^

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